Insect Collection Guidelines
1. Total number of different insects: 35
This is the requirement to get an A but does not guarantee an A. Other considerations such as how they are mounted and identified will also determine the grade. (i.e. 35 mangled, squashed, misidentified bugs will not earn an A)
Thirty-five different insects means you would not receive credit for four insects by mounting four of the same type of ant, but if they can be identified as fire ant, black carpenter ant, little black ant and honey ant they would qualify as four separate insects.
2. Each insect should be identified and labeled with its common name and the order to which it belongs. Neatness and accuracy count.
Please be sure that each insect is separately labeled with its common name and its order. Do not put numbers next to the insect to match numbers in a list of names. Examples of common names with orders: Monarch butterfly - Lepidoptera, Eastern Tiger Swallowtail butterfly - Lepidoptera, Ladybird beetle - Coleoptera.
3. How do students identify the insects?
Field guides are available on line, at the library, and in the classroom. At this web site are some links that can help. Some are more useful than others. Some may give only a scientific name while the common name may be found elsewhere by using the scientific name. The field guides in the classroom will be available for use in the classroom after school. If students are transporting their insects to school for identification they should be sure that the insects are protected.
4. What bugs qualify?
No Arachnids (spiders, ticks, scorpions)
Only adult forms (no pupae, larvae, worms, caterpillars)
No pill bugs, centipedes, millipedes or other non-insects (Remember insects have 6 legs)
No bugs should be used that were previously in someone else's collection or that were bought from any type of supplier including another student. Students may trade insects they have collected for insects other students have collected.
5. What work must students do?
Each student should do his own work regarding mounting (pinning), identifying and labeling. Parents and friends may help with the collecting and construction of display board or box or the student may do it all.
6. What are the requirements for the display?
Display board should be no larger than 36" x 22" x 4" high. These are maximum dimensions not required dimensions. It is not necessary to have a fancy box or creative display. Styrofoam boards and corkboards are sufficient. They should have somewhere on the board the students name and period that he/she has science.
7. When is it due? ------- Tuesday, Oct. 3, 2017
1. Total number of different insects: 35
This is the requirement to get an A but does not guarantee an A. Other considerations such as how they are mounted and identified will also determine the grade. (i.e. 35 mangled, squashed, misidentified bugs will not earn an A)
Thirty-five different insects means you would not receive credit for four insects by mounting four of the same type of ant, but if they can be identified as fire ant, black carpenter ant, little black ant and honey ant they would qualify as four separate insects.
2. Each insect should be identified and labeled with its common name and the order to which it belongs. Neatness and accuracy count.
Please be sure that each insect is separately labeled with its common name and its order. Do not put numbers next to the insect to match numbers in a list of names. Examples of common names with orders: Monarch butterfly - Lepidoptera, Eastern Tiger Swallowtail butterfly - Lepidoptera, Ladybird beetle - Coleoptera.
3. How do students identify the insects?
Field guides are available on line, at the library, and in the classroom. At this web site are some links that can help. Some are more useful than others. Some may give only a scientific name while the common name may be found elsewhere by using the scientific name. The field guides in the classroom will be available for use in the classroom after school. If students are transporting their insects to school for identification they should be sure that the insects are protected.
4. What bugs qualify?
No Arachnids (spiders, ticks, scorpions)
Only adult forms (no pupae, larvae, worms, caterpillars)
No pill bugs, centipedes, millipedes or other non-insects (Remember insects have 6 legs)
No bugs should be used that were previously in someone else's collection or that were bought from any type of supplier including another student. Students may trade insects they have collected for insects other students have collected.
5. What work must students do?
Each student should do his own work regarding mounting (pinning), identifying and labeling. Parents and friends may help with the collecting and construction of display board or box or the student may do it all.
6. What are the requirements for the display?
Display board should be no larger than 36" x 22" x 4" high. These are maximum dimensions not required dimensions. It is not necessary to have a fancy box or creative display. Styrofoam boards and corkboards are sufficient. They should have somewhere on the board the students name and period that he/she has science.
7. When is it due? ------- Tuesday, Oct. 3, 2017
8. Suggestions:
Collect insects near ponds, in fields, near lights at night, under rocks & logs (be careful of snakes)
Euthanize insects using a killing jar with rubbing alcohol or by putting them in the freezer for several hours (not several days). For those who are a little squeamish about this, keep in mind that insects really don't have enough of a brain to "feel" any kind of suffering. Any squirming they do is simply an automatic response similar to our reflexes.
Collect insects near ponds, in fields, near lights at night, under rocks & logs (be careful of snakes)
Euthanize insects using a killing jar with rubbing alcohol or by putting them in the freezer for several hours (not several days). For those who are a little squeamish about this, keep in mind that insects really don't have enough of a brain to "feel" any kind of suffering. Any squirming they do is simply an automatic response similar to our reflexes.
Butterflies and moths may be euthanized differently. Immediately after catching them put them with their wings spread in a plastic bag such as a zippable sandwich bag. Then with their back to one hand give them a quick squeeze of their thorax with the thumb and index finger of your other hand. Sometimes this will only stun them and you may have to repeat action again. Once you have done this a few times you will have a better idea just how much pressure to use without damaging your specimen.
Put a pin through the insect's body soon after the insect is dead. Insects tend to dry out and harden over time and become more difficult to pin without destroying them. Moths and butterflies look better with the wings spread. This is best done soon after the insect is euthanized. See photo to see how it can be done with a spreading board. A spreading board is not necessary if the insect is spread upside down on Styrofoam. Once each insect is pinned, it may be stuck into a Styrofoam board until it is placed on the display board. Of course, keep it in a safe place away from pets and younger siblings.
What do you do about dry, stiff insects that need to be pinned?
Any dry insect that needs to be pinned should first be "relaxed" before attempting to put a pin in it. Even freshly killed insects will pin better if they are first relaxed. For example, trying to unfold butterfly wings once they have dried and rigor mortis has set in will usually result in broken wings if they are not first relaxed.
What is a relaxing chamber? Some type of air tight container with water on the bottom or in a separate container that is open inside the chamber. You may want to soak paper towels and put them in the bottom and cover them with cotton to keep the insect from soaking in the water. Some insects may get tangled in the cotton, so it is wise to cover the cotton with tissue.
How long should they be "relaxed"? For most specimens eight hours would be enough, but some need as much as two days. Longer than two days may risk the formation of mold on the specimen unless some type of mold inhibiting chemical is added to the water. One such chemical is the naphthalene that makes up moth balls. A few chips from a moth ball would probably be suffici
How do you preserve insects for a longer period of time?
Be aware the the biggest enemy of your collection is moisture and the 2nd is other insects. First of all, moisture encourages the growth of mold and the deterioration of your insects. Anything you can do to dry them out will help. Remember to pin them before drying them. To dry they need to air out in a protected environment but not in an airtight container. You may leave them out in the sun for a short period or on a screened-in porch or some other type of screening for several hours. The screening is to protect them from other insects. Sometimes tiny larvae can hatch from tiny "unseen" eggs and then begin feeding on them. Once your insects have dried out moth balls or a no pest strip can protect them from being eaten by most other insects. Also, don't forget to protect them from pets and siblings as well.
In addition, your Lab Manual will have some suggestions regarding collecting insects. If there seem to be any conflicts between those pages and the guidelines given by your teacher, use the ones given by your teacher.
If you have any questions please feel free to email me at JFoster@bobjonesacademy.net .
Any dry insect that needs to be pinned should first be "relaxed" before attempting to put a pin in it. Even freshly killed insects will pin better if they are first relaxed. For example, trying to unfold butterfly wings once they have dried and rigor mortis has set in will usually result in broken wings if they are not first relaxed.
What is a relaxing chamber? Some type of air tight container with water on the bottom or in a separate container that is open inside the chamber. You may want to soak paper towels and put them in the bottom and cover them with cotton to keep the insect from soaking in the water. Some insects may get tangled in the cotton, so it is wise to cover the cotton with tissue.
How long should they be "relaxed"? For most specimens eight hours would be enough, but some need as much as two days. Longer than two days may risk the formation of mold on the specimen unless some type of mold inhibiting chemical is added to the water. One such chemical is the naphthalene that makes up moth balls. A few chips from a moth ball would probably be suffici
How do you preserve insects for a longer period of time?
Be aware the the biggest enemy of your collection is moisture and the 2nd is other insects. First of all, moisture encourages the growth of mold and the deterioration of your insects. Anything you can do to dry them out will help. Remember to pin them before drying them. To dry they need to air out in a protected environment but not in an airtight container. You may leave them out in the sun for a short period or on a screened-in porch or some other type of screening for several hours. The screening is to protect them from other insects. Sometimes tiny larvae can hatch from tiny "unseen" eggs and then begin feeding on them. Once your insects have dried out moth balls or a no pest strip can protect them from being eaten by most other insects. Also, don't forget to protect them from pets and siblings as well.
In addition, your Lab Manual will have some suggestions regarding collecting insects. If there seem to be any conflicts between those pages and the guidelines given by your teacher, use the ones given by your teacher.
If you have any questions please feel free to email me at JFoster@bobjonesacademy.net .